Regency Reader Questions: Ices and Popsicles

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Ice Molds available in the late 1800s.

Q: I know Gunter’s Ices was a respectable place for a governess to take her charges. Is it true Regency “ices” were closer to modren popsicles than ice cream?

Thanks for the question, Susan, and for being a Regency Reader!

I have a post on Gunter’s which describes the different types of textures and styles of ices: Regency Hot Spots: Gunters – Regency Reader (regrom.com)

Ices could be similar to popsicles  or sorbets (sometimes called ice waters), where water flavored with jam or syrup were then frozen into shapes for enjoyment as a frozen treat:

ICE WATERS ERS Barberry water Ice PUT a spoonful of barberry jam into a basin squeeze in one lemon add a pint of water and a little cochineal to colourit pass it through a sieve and freeze it be very careful that it freezes thick and smooth like butter before you put it in your moulds Do raspberry and strawberry water ice the same way Pine Apple water Ice Take two gills of pine apple syrup squeeze in the juice of two lemons and add a pint of water If you want it in the shape of a pine close it well and cover the shape with a sheet of paper before you put it in the ice let it lie for one hour covered with the ice and salt before you turn it out China Orange water Ice Rasp one China orange squeeze in three and one lemon add two gills of syrup and half a pint of water Pass and freeze it thick and rich Lemon
Lemon roater Ice Do it the same as orange Black Currant water Do it the same as lemon Fresh Currant water Ice Pass a pint of currants through a sieve put in four ounces of powdered sugar and a pint of water pass and freeze thick Any fresh fruit may be done the saine way The New London Family Cook: Or, Town and Country Housekeeper’s Guide (1818)

There were cream ices, prepared with jam, cream, sugar and sometimes eggs, similar to modern ice cream:

way Apricot Ice Mix half a pound of apricot jam in one quart of cream when well mixed put a little more sogar if wanted and a small glass of ratifie or brandy that has kernels in it which is nearly the sane thing rub it through a taminy sieve or a very close hair sieve then put it into the freezing pot and put that into the ice tub work it well round until it sticks to the sides then serape it off with a slice for that purpose and go on working it round in the ice until it is all froze and come to a thick body then leave it covered up in the ice for half an hour then take it out with a spoon and put it into the moulds put paper at each end of the mould by way of keeping the ice froin sticking to the lids bury the moulds in the ice when wanted dip the inoulds in cold water to make them turn out the ice smooth the turning out of ices should be left to the last ininute NB Ice for freezing should be pounded into small pieces and mixed with salt Raspberry Ice Rub one quart of raspberries through a cammy put one quart of cream and sweeten with sifted lump sugar finish the same as the apricot NB If the ice is inade when the fresh raspberries are out lise raspberry jain mix half a pound of jam to one quart of cream and rub it through a tanmy sieve or a tainmy A Complete System of Cookery (1813)

There were other cream ices made from fruit and liqueur syrups, as well as cream, sugar and eggs or cream ices made from ripe fruits.  Some were started like custard, where you would heat the cream before pouring onto sugar and egg yolks and mixing.  The mixture would then be placed back on the heat until it thickened, run through a strainer, let cool before adding vanilla or another flavor, and then freezing either in a box or mold.  When partially frozen, whipped cream could then be added to the custard to increase its fluffiness.

In 1830, William Gunter had published Gunter’s Confectioner’s Oracle, with recipes and even recommendations for service at parties.

In the 1860s, the Chief Confectioner at Gunter’s released a recipe and “practical guide” to confectionery which is delightful and gives a peek at what may have been on offer at Gunter’s in that era.  The linked edition is from 1870.

 

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One Response to Regency Reader Questions: Ices and Popsicles

  1. Susan Macdonald says:
    January 22, 2022 at 5:42 am

    Thank you very much. This should help with my story.