Regency Hot Spots: Dolly’s Beefsteak House

Dolly's Beef Steak House King's Head Court Newgate street known for cooking beef steaks in the highest perfection blished house noted for a copious bill of fare The Picture of London, for 1803 (1803)

Dolly’s Beef-Steak House, alternatively known as Dolly’s Chop House, was named for the cook Dolly who was said to have been the favorite cook of Queen Anne.  Queen Anne made a gift of the place sometime in the early 18th century.

Throughout the 1700s, it would be a well-known place for the upper crust to dine on sumptuous fare, including the famous beef-steaks:

the Coal hole pungent my sense of the Cheshire Cheese the Hole in the Wall has a snug appellation and as for Dolly's Beef steak House great would be my ingratitude did I forget its hot pewter plate new bread floury potatoes foaming pot of porter and perfect beefsteak The man that cannot enjoy a beefsteak there can enjoy a stomach no where But it is not what I was seeking the other night Neither is The New Monthly Magazine (1826)

Dolly’s was mostly a place for gentlemen to dine, often in solitary enjoyment of their steak and potatoes.  By the Regency era, it was said to project an “olden air” but still promised a good ale, meal, and the chance to rub  elbows with rarefied diners.  Thomas Howell took over sometime in the 1830s (https://londonstreetviews.wordpress.com/2016/03/24/thomas-howell-dollys-beef-steak-house/) continuing the legacy of the Paternoster Row hot spot.

By the late Victorian period, Dolly’s would be no longer but it was still remembered in reminiscent tributes:

Dolly's Chop house The march of improvement and the spread of commerce are answerable for the utter disappearance the wiping out of many places of great interest in bygone times Not only have the Martins of Lombard Street in extending their banking premises rearwards in Change Alley swallowed up the famous Garraway's but Messrs Faudel Phillips and Sons of Newgate Street the firm presided over by the late Lord Mayor have octopus like stretched forth their back premises and incorporated with their warehouses and offices the ground whereon once stood the celebrated Dolly's Chop house Queen's Head Passage leading from Newgate Street to Paternoster Row knows Dolly's no more Not even a vestige or memento is there to mark the place where once the old house stood but it is hallowed ground nevertheless One can well imagine the spooks of all those wits and poets statesmen and fops writers painters and musicians of the days when Anne was Queen and the first two Hanoverian Georges Kings still visiting in the silent midnight hours the scenes of their earthly glories One can fancy the reappearance in shadowy and ethereal forms of Fielding Defoe Sam Richardson Smollett
Swift Dryden Pope and many other literary stars of that bright eighteenth century while the great Sir Joshua Hogarth and his father in law Sir James Thornhill would well represent the wielders of the brush and palette and sweet music would not be absent where Purcell Handel and Dr Arne joined the glorious crowd All these men and many more were frequenters of Dolly's

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