Regency Fashion: Putting on a Cravat

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1820s figure of a cravat
Figures and lessons are taken from The Art of Tying the Cravat
Demonstrated in Sixteen Lessons, Including Thirty-two Different Styles, Forming a Pocket Manual … Preceded by a History of the Cravat, from Its Origin to the Present Time, and Remarks on Its Influence on Society in General (1829).

Starch gives a combination of substance elasticity and supleness to the handkerchief and by filling up the smallest holes effectually excludes the cold air in winter In summer it also possesses the incalculable advantage of preventing the Cravat from adhering too closely to the neck and thereby producing an uncomfortable heat Whatever style may have been adopted in putting on the Cravat when the knot is once formed whether good or bad it should not be changed under any pretence whatever In the duties of the toilet we may compare the tie of the Cravat to the liaisons de
sauces blanches of the kitchen the least error is fatal to the whole composition of either and as a new sauce must be prepared with entirely fresh ingrediments so must a new tie be produced by a fresh Cravat When the Cravat is satisfactorily arranged the finger must be passed lightly along the top to smooth and thin it and cause it to coincide with the shirt collar A small iron with a handle made expressly for the purpose and moderately warm is the best instrument for producing a thin and equal edge to the cravat it will also serve to smooth the tie but great care must be taken that it is clean and glossy as without this precaution spots will be inevitable See plate A fig 5 When a Cravat has not been previously folded by the laundress and you have prepared

pared it yourself of the exact height required by the style you intend to adopt particular attention should be paid to the folding the ends one of which must be folded down and the other up as it may be the right or left end Plate A fig 2 The great advantages of this method will be immediately perceptible in the prevention of that disagreeable prominence which is generally produced at the back of the neck by the junction of the ends which being brought to the front without being soiled or tumbled in the slightest degee are more easily formed into an elegant tie The same care and attention are necessary to the back as to the front of the Cravat Although coloured Cravats are made of more costly materials than those which are

entirely plain it is most clearly laid down as a rule in the laws of taste that they can be admitted only as undress costume The white Cravat with spots or squares is received as half dress but the plain white alone is allowed at bawls or soriées The black Stock or Cravat is only suited to military men not on service who are dressed in plain cloths As to coloured Cravats they are entirely prohibited in evening parties

The directions continue: ”

In the first place, the Cravat for this tie must be of ample size, and properly starched, ironed, and folded (as shewn plate B. fig. 6); whether it be plain or coloured is of little consequence; but a rather stout one should be preferred, as it will offer more facilities to the daring fingers of the beginner who attempts to accomplish this chef-d’œuvre.

It will then be necessary to meditate deeply and seriously on the five following directions.

I. When you have decided on the Cravat, it must be placed on the neck, and the ends left hanging (as shewn plate B, fig. 7, first time).

II. You must take the point K, pass it on the inside of the point Z, and raise it (same plate, fig. 8, second time).

III. You lower the point K on the tie, now half formed O (same plate, fig. 9, third time).

IV. Then, without leaving the point K, you bend it inside and draw it between the point Z,[33] which you repass to the left, Y; in the tie now formed, Y, O, you thus accomplish the formation of the destined knot.

V. and last. After having tightened the knot, and flattened it with the thumb and fore-finger, or more properly with the iron, mentioned in the preceding lesson (see plate A, fig. 5); you lower the points, K, Z, cross them, and place a pin at the point of junction H, and at once solve the problem of the Nœud Gordien.

He who is perfectly conversant with the theory and practice of this tie, may truly boast that he possesses the key to all the others, which are, in fact, derived from this alone. A Cravat which has been once worn in this way, can only be used afterwards en negligé, as it will be so much tumbled by this intricate arrangement.

The slightest error in the first fold of this tie will render all succeeding efforts, with the same handkerchief, entirely useless—we have said it.

We would, therefore, seriously advise any one who really desires to be initiated in the mysteries of this delightful science, to make his first essay[34] on a moderate sized block. We can confidently assure him, that with moderate perseverance, he will soon be enabled to pursue his studies with pleasure and advantage—on himself.

(A careful examination of the figures referred to in this lesson is strongly recommended).”

We will continue, over the next several months, to explore Men’s Regency Fashion..so stay tuned for more on cravats, breeches and great coats.

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