Regency Destinations: Dumbarton Castle

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DUMBARTON is a small indifferent town the inn not extraordinary but tolerably comfortable Here a good fire being made and having got dressed we were keen for dinner On enquiring what was the distance to Jeelston which though well acquainted with the country some years I had now forgot I dispatched a messenger to give notice that we should breakfast there the next day when our landlord informed me that there was an English gentleman in his house who appeared to be as eager for fair weather to take an accurate view of Dumbarton castle as ourselves We sent our compliments and desired his company to dinner which he readily accepted for as we had previously bespoken the best rooms & c he was but indifferently accommodated He soon joined us and produced his sketches Mr Gerrard did the same and as we had differed in our plan and also in our tract we mutually amused each other both artists remaining anxious for the morning

A Sporting Tour Through the Northern Parts of England, and Great Part of the Highlands of Scotland (1804)

Dumbarton Castle, nestle in the basalt of Dumbarton Rock by the River Clyde, is purported to be the longest recorded history of any stronghold in Scotland.  Archaeological evidence suggests settlement patterns from at least the Iron Age.  The Castle dates from the early Medieval period, and Merlin is reported to have some connection to Dunbarton.

The castle and rock have a long and storied history, involved in battles, imprisonments, and various political machinations.  By the Regency era, it was a notable site for travellers.

Says one account:

Dumbarton Castle As we approached the castle of Dumbarton it became a very picturesque object the rock divides about the middle and forms two summits the craggy sides are finely broken and the buildings upon it though not of themselves beautiful have a good effect and as Mr Gilpin justly remarks serve to give it consequence You enter this fortress by a gate at the bottom Within the rampart which defends the entrance is the guardhouse and lodgings for officers from hence you ascend by a long flight of stone steps to that part of the rock where it diC 2 vides
vides here is a battery barracks for the garrison and a well or reservoir always filled with water Above these on the lower summit of the rock are several batteries mounted with The access to the higher and narrower summit is very difficult From the upper batteries are some very extenfive views cannon Observations on a Tour Through the Highlands and Part of the Western Isles of Scotland (1800)

Near Loch Lochmond, there were many scenic attractions to the traveler desirious of taking in the wonders of Scotland and the mountains.

a most animated picture of The fortress of Dumbarton the vicinity of the town of the name is the strongest and in point situation the most picturesque in The castle stands on a high basalt rock connected the shore only at a very small point while it is three parts surrounded by Frith of Clyde into which the disembogues itself near this spot would be difficult to find in any part the world a steeper or more formed rock than this In the between its two summits stands main part of the fortress the steps leading to it are cut in the rock which in many places a magnetic power sword of Wallace is kept in castle and certainly no fitter place be chosen to deposit a memorial of Scotland's deliverer than this which was scene of his heroic achievements The New Monthly Magazine and Universal Register Volume 14 (1820)

Here is an account of what would greet the Regency visitor:

 

orchard Leaving Dunglass with Dumbarton in full view we hastened toward Dumbarton castle Castle it scarcely can be termed as it merely consists of a few walls and batteries enclosing the Governor's house and some barracks for a few soldiers The rock on which it stands is its chief strength and the object which most attracts the attention of strangers Rising from one solid base a mile in circumference it soon splits into two peaks one 560 feet above the river which runs immediately below it the other does not attain so great a height Its colour is black where it is not enlivened by patches of short green grass A long road washed on both sides by the water leads to the only accessible part of the rock Tracing this we arrived at the gateway and ascending two or three steps came to the governor's house a plain comfortable mansion which has nothing warlike in its appearance if we except the surrounding cannons and castellated ramparts A soldier anticipating the intention of our visit conducted us into a little room called the guard room
where are kept the soldiers beer and guns On one side of the room was a row of pegs on which were hanging military hats cloaks and weapons from among these he took down the precious relic Wallace's sword It is about four feet long although it has lost two feet of its original length Its breadth on an average is scarcely an inch the handle is seven or eight inches terminated by a round bail and separated from the hilt by a cross bar or guard of the same dimensions the blade has now no edge My companion grasped the weapon with enthusiasm and brandished it most heroically Near this room we ascended a steep and long flight of steps cut out in a narrow cleft in the rock which brought us to the opening where the rock divides Here are the barracks for the soldiers and a large reservoir always full of fine fresh water We now walked up to the lower summit and looked down a steep precipice broken at intervals by projecting craggs This side of the rock in the time of Mary Queen of Scots was scaled during the night by a Capt Crauford followed by a small party of soldiers Seeking the bubble reputation Even in the cannon's mouth The Pocket Magazine of Classics and Polite Literature Volume 2 (1818)

 

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