Regency Fashion: Evening, Carriage, Promenade Dresses (1836)

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FASHIONS FOR DECEMBER DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVING of a very rich kind the ground is a very pale pink figured EVENING DRESS The robe is composed of figured satin in a deeper shade of the same colour the corsage cut low square and tight to the shape is trimmed in front with a tulle drapery laid on and arranged in the centre by coques of pink satin ribbon A blond lace pelerine mantilla encircles the back and shoulders the ends of the drapery are gathered under it and ornamented with coques of ribbon smaller coques decorate the front of the corsage which is pointed at the bottom Short tight sleeves trimmed ร  la Maintenon skirt made with a demi train is finished round the with tulle manchettes edged with narrow blond lace with a bouillonnรฉe of tulle the bouillons forr of pink satin ribbon Coiffure ร  la Valliรฉs posed in ringlets at the sides flat on the and in low bows on one side It is ornam and tasteful style with a ferroniรฉre of wreath of delicate flowers at the flowers placed in different direc
MONTHLY BELLE ASSEMBLร‰E DECEMBER 1836 wwwWW WI N DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVING PUBLIC PROMENADE DRESS Mantle of a perfectly new form it is composed of tissu Mascarn a green ground figured in green and lined with lilac quadrilled gros de Naples it is confined round the waist by a band of the material of the mantle and made with a pelerine which is round behind cut out in the heart shape on the bosom and a green velvet col lar sitting close round the neck with a lappel which closing down the front turns back on the breast Large sleeves of a peculiarly graceful form Violet velvet hat a round open brim the interior decorated with green satin flowers a low crown trimmed with violet satin ribbon and two white ostrich feathers The sitting figure gives a reverse view of the dress X THE NEW
DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVING เฅจเฅฆ 104 MORNING DRESS OF A PARIS LADY SITTING FIGURE The robe is composed of one of the new materials of Cash mere wool and silk the ground is the former and it is figured in the latter the corsage is made a three quarter height with a lappel of the heart shape Short sleeves made light descending to the elbow and finished with thread lace ruffles of moderate size Rose coloured pou de Soie scarf pointed behind crossing on the bosom and carelessly exowane bibasta tsom modtian shsinM ฮคฮฟ ฮ”ฮฏฮฟฮดฮฟ tied at the back it is trimmed with thread lace Tulle cap the front is composed of a triple row arranged in a perfectly new manner The caul is rather high and placed far back the trimming consists of rose coloured satin ribbon The standing tigure gives a back view of the cap and scarf but the robe is made with long sleeves and the border of the skirt trimmed with a single flounce FASHIONS FOR DECEMBER
FASHIONS FOR DECEMBER TO THE EDITRESS OF LA BELLE ASSEMBLEE Rue du Faubourg Saint Honorรฉ ร  Paris Nov 24 My dear Friend If our fashionable season answers the preparations made for it it will be the most splendid that we have had for the last seven years All is bustle mouvement in short but thank Heaven this time the mouvement will cost neither life nor limb the only wounds inflicted by it will be those deadly ones given to the purses of husbands many of whom would gladly rebel if they dared against the despot Fashion a despot by the bye who has now for centuries maintained her absolute power over France while every other form of government has been successively over thrown Mais mille pardons ma chรจre for this digression let me hasten to make you au fait of the novelties that have just appeared or will appear in the course of the month Velvet will be very much the rage for bonnets mantles and robes it is already adopted for the first as also for mantelets and shawls There are some shawls in colours as dark green drab and deep blue but they are not so elegant as black nor so well calculated to display the beauty of the bor der embroidered in colours I have seen a few in what are called Egyptian patterns but I cannot recommend them to your fair readers they are showy and singular but not elegant Velvet mantelets of a new and becoming form are beginning to be adopted the pelerine part has two falls and is cut something in the shawl style the scarf ends which are rather broad descend a little below the knee Mantles both of velvet and satin wadded and lined with satin and the lining quilted either in small quadrilled pattern or what is still prettier in sprigs of foliage and other fancy patterns begin to come into favour and will be more so in the course of the month they are worn both in carriage dress and for the Opera I shall cite two that I think extremely elegant the one is crimson satin lined with white satin and bordered with swansdown the other garter blue satin lined with pale pink satin and trimmed with light sable Apropos of sable fur trimmings will be quite the rage both in out door and in door dress Muffs which have been very little worn for some seasons past are now universally adopted Boas despite of many attempts to cry them down con tinue their vogue Mantles and mantelets begin already to be trimmed with fur and I have strong reasons to believe that when the season fairly opens which it will in December evening robes parti cularly open ones will be trimmed with sable or ermine Grey squirrel always a favourite out door fur with ladies of moderate fortune will not be considered good enough for trimming evening dresses but will probably be employed for negligรฉ An attempt was made a year or two ago and is now again making to introduce a new kind of fur which we have imported from Germany as you may see by its harsh name Grebe it is manufac tured from the plumage of a sea fowl and it is intended to rival swansdown but assuredly will never in any respect be able to compete with that delicate fur Some of our merveilleuses however affect to patronize it as they do every thing else that is new scarce and dear but it is not likely ever to become generally fashionable There is considerable variety in the materials of hats and bonnets Velvet velours รฉpinglรฉ satin poult de Soie gros d Alger peluche and moire are all in favour You are surprised no doubt that the last material which is a summer one and in deed calculated for summer only should be adopted in winter it is a caprice of fashion and may be a transient one but after seeing velvet worn in the dog days ought we to be surprised at any thing A good many of the new undress bonnets are of black satin the brims drawn and lined with light coloured satin apple green is much in favour for linings the crowns are drawn round the head but rise full above it The ribbon that trims these bonnets has always a black ground but it may be spotted or striped at the edge in the colour of the lining Velvet will be in great favour for half dress hats or bonnets It may be trimmed either with ribbon arranged in simple knots with feathers or even with flowers but the only orna ments of the latter kind suitable for black velvet is a sprig of orange blossoms or a bouquet of roses If the bonnet is green it should be orna mented with a single poppy or a tuft of periwin kles If the head dress is of any other colour the flowers must be in velvet to correspond Velours รฉpinglรฉ less rich but also not so heavy as velvet will be in great request Marron scabieuse and grey are expected to be favourite colours for it grey forms a very pretty mixture with ponceau velvet or cherry coloured velours รฉpinglรฉ I have already spoken to you of Peluche when it is worn by unmarried ladies it is simply trimmed with plain white satin ribbon It is trimmed for mar ried ladies with feathers flowers or velours รฉpinglรฉ Parrot green and straw will be favourite colours for satin and black white and myrtle green for moire Flowers will continue to be employed during the winter to trim the interior of the brims of hats and bonnets Some have appeared ornamented with the tips of feathers instead of flowers but they are few in number the most elegant being adorned with early spring flowers such as Persian lilac wild violets and other field flowers Pro menade bonnets have the brim of moderate size rather close at the sides but evasรฉe at the top the brims are not so long as they have lately been worn they are decidedly smaller than they were a few weeks ago and their size may now I think be considered as settled for the season Generally speaking the flowers or knots of ribbon that orna ment a hat or bonnet are placed almost at the bottom of the crown Feathers alone are allowed to rise above it but not much as they must be placed so as to droop on one side Before we go in doors I must say a word or two to you of a love of a shawl which a friend of mine distinguished for her taste has just bought as a wedding present for her niece it is an Indian Cashmere square and of very large size a pon ceau ground the border lightly embroidered in black sฤฑlk and edged with broad black blond lace it is lined with white satin the effect upon the whole is equally rich and elegant FASHIONS FOR DECEMBER 329

Now let us pass to the breakfast table for which dresses and is really the prettiest most graceful the robe de chambre of materials as comfortable as they are elegant and bonnet bouillonรฉe of tulle are indispensable Very fine merinos or plain Cachemirienne are favourite materials for robes de chambre they are wadded or lined with peluche rose or cherry coloured peluche has a very pretty effect under pearl grey merinos and that with Turkish patterns is a rich lining for white blue or light green Cachemirienne The form of these dresses has not altered except that the sleeves have somewhat diminished in size The cap must have the tulle bouillonce at the sides only and de scending rather low with floating brides of tulle The caul high and round is encircled on the sum mit of the head by a wreath of ribbons disposed in deep points High dresses and donillettes as our wadded pelisses are called are also in favour for home negligรฉ No particular change has taken place in the make of these dresses The form of sleeves is and becoming coiffure that I have seen for some time Coiffures en eheveux will be those of Louis XIV s day ornamented with diadems and wreaths of coloured gems mounted in the antique style There are some novelties expected to appear in jewellery of which I shall give you an account in my next I have both in my last and this spoken to you ma chรจrej of the colours that will be most in request There are however three new ones which I have not mentioned that are likely to have a great run the first is blue of the same shade as your Order of the Garter and called by its name the second Eau de Danube a very delicate shade of green and the third a pretty kind of nonde script hue called moire dort Confess chรจre et bonne amie that this time I have amply fulfilled the mission with which you have honoured Your devotedly attached ADRIENNE DE M not yet settled many รฉlรฉgantes adopt those demi DESCRIPTION OF THE MONTHLY large which are certainly better calculated for morning dress than long tight sleeves I have some reason to believe that as the season advances two distinct kinds of sleeves will be adopted for dress and undress robes Such a regulation is very much wanted Although the splendid materials of which I spoke to you in my last will be extremely fashion able it appears probable that velvet will be more so Several of my friends have already ordered high dresses and pelisses of it for half dress as well as evening robes In the former case the hat or bonnet must be of satin the effect would otherwise be heavy Open robes both of silk and velvet are expected to be very generally adopted in full dress The under dresses of satin or else of crape or lace over satin will be a good deal trimm ed Among the trimmings that will be employed those most likely to be in favour will be three large rouleaux a row of bouillons or a deep flounce You have already ma chรจre amie some very pretty models of round robes and I am inclined to think that little change will take place either in corsages or sleeves at least for some time I must not forget to observe to you that demi trains gain ground PLATE CARRIAGE DRESS A high dress of parrot green satin the corsage made to fit the shape exactly with a small round collar partially stand ing up round the throat The front of the corsage and also the front of the skirt is trimmed in a very novel and somewhat military style with buttons and braiding to correspond The sleeve is of the Amadis form at the bottom but the upper part disposed in a single large bouffant and the shoul der ornamented with the material of the dress pinked White moire hat the brim open and round is ornamented next the face with blond lace and a wreath of damask roses A low crown trimmed with white satin ribbon and a bird of paradise Dress hats caps turbans and above all cha peaux toques will be adopted in evening dress The prettiest among the first will be those small ones which we style petits bords I have recently seen one composed of blue velours รฉpinglรฉ the brim extremely evasรฉe formed a coquille on the sides and turned up in front from the right to the left a point descended from under the brim on the forehead which was covered with a bandeau of pearls that descended on the left upon the cheek and terminated by pearl acorns Several of the new caps are made a little in the turban style and contain in their folds at least a dozen of roses The turbans ร  l antique and ร  la Juive are the only ones that will be adopted by รฉlรฉgantes of taste Finis sons with the prettiest of all the evening head dresses the chapeau toque composed of velvet and trimmed either with pearls or beads and feathers it is as its name implies a melange of two head EVENING DRESS Oiseau satin robe a low tight corsage pointed at the bottom seamed at each side of the front and ornamented with a lappel of a very novel description trimmed with rouleaus short sleeves the fulness drawn in at the top under a band and knot of ribbon the re mainder forms a full bouffant The head dress is a toque of white spotted gaze de Syrie a low foundation and front arranged in high and full folds the ends of the gauze trimmed with gold fringe droop at the sides White figured satin scarf PROMENADE DRESS Robe of one of the new figured poplins a peculiar shade of drab a high corsage covered by a pelerine forming a point be fore and rounded behind it is trimmed with a double fold of brown velvet the sleeve is full at the top tight at the bottom and trimmed with a pointed cuff and a full knot of velvet on the upper part Nล“uds en cornet ornament the front of the skirt Lace collerette descending en fichu in front of the corsage Bonnet of rose coloured rep velvet the brim rather large is trimmed next the face with pointed tulle low crown ornamented with a blond lace drapery and satin ribbons to correspond MORNING DRESS Lilac gros de Naples robe corsage tight to the shape with a pelerine fichu of the same material a little open on the bosom displaying the chemisette it is trimmed with the same material set on full long tight sleeves the 330 FASHIONS FOR DECEMBER
upper part covered with rows of trimming One side of the skirt is also finished with a single row of trimming to correspond White peluche bonnet a round brim the interior ornamented with blond and roses a low melon crown surmounted by a sprig of roses a single flower placed on one side and white satin ribbon completes the trimming HALF LENGTH FIGURES AND FASHIONABLE MILLINERY The No 1 HALF DRESS HAT of white rep velvet a round moderate sized brim and low crown trimming is white satin ribbon and a white ostrich feather No 2 MORNING DRESS Blue satin robe the corsage quite high and tight to the shape has the front trimmed with velvet ornaments of the leaf kind The sleeves made to fit the arm at the ed lower part but with the upper full are trimmed with mancherons edged with rich bullion fringe the skirt is finished round the border with a double row of fringe Hat of orange coloured satin a moderate sized brim trimmed en cornette with blond lace and over the forehead with a band and coques of crimson velvet orange ribbons and a sprig of orange blossoms decorate the crown No 3 CARRIAGE HAT Of rose coloured satin trimmed with ribbons to correspond and a single white ostrich feather No 4 MORNING BONNET Of dove coloured satin a drawn brim lined with pink satin and melon crown made high the trimming consists of ribbon to correspond and a sprig of wild blossoms No 5 MORNING DRESS Satin robe of the new colour Eau de Danube the corsage is made quite high and the front trimmed in the Hussar style with braiding and brandenburgs Sleeves ร  la Gabrielle ornamented with ribbon to corres pond Tulle cap the front moderately high is sustained by coques of oiseau satin ribbon on one side and trimmed with a sprig of flowers and ribbon on the other a low caul crowned with flowers No 6 A front view of No 4 No 7 HALF DRESS CAP Of tulle the sides are trimmed with blond lightly intermixed with roses a moderately high caul trimmed with bands and knots of pink ribbon No 8 DINNER TURBAN Of white gauze in termingled with beads No 9 CARRIAGE HAT Of cinnamon brown velvet a large brim and low crown decorated with a bouquet of flowers and ribbons to corres pond No 10 MORNING CAP Of tulle and open and rather high front and caul of moderate height the trimming is pink ribbon and light sprigs of flowers

Designs and descriptions appeared in the December New Monthly Belle Assemblรฉe from 1836.

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