Regency Fashion: Padded Calves

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At this instant all heads were attracted to the windows by a spectacle presented at the back of a carriage just then passing behind it in all the pride and pomp of white silk hose appeared a splendid pair of calves accompanied by a livery coat cocked hat and cane A little boy had presumptuously mounted the step behind and the proprietor of the calves instead of ordering him off thrust him brutally down by an applica tion of his foot to the face of the unfortunate ur chin Boys are little men especially in their passions and resentment of injury is a sharp and subtle suggester The youthful proselyte of ven geance after an instant's consideration darted forwards caught hold of the rail of the carriage ran behind it a few feet and then thrust a pin into one of the broad round shak ing calves of the footman With uplifted leg he stood while the carriage rapidly bore him away from his retreating tor mentor He had a stick but he could not use it he was in a free country yet he dared not stop the carriage He was hopelessly ridiculously helpless How he envied all those of his fraternity who wore padded calves A cork leg would have been a real blessing GC www www MA George Cruikshank’s omnibus, ed. by L. Blanchard. (1842). United Kingdom: (n.p.).

The fashion of padded calves started in the Georgian era, particularly circa 1780s, where a manly calf was all the rage.  However, the fashion continued well into the Regency and even Victorian eras.  The All Things Georgian blog has a nice post with some ads and a description of the manufacturing (Bums, Tums and Downy Calves – All Things Georgian) of the false calves made for spindle shanks.  I also found advertisements in the Regency for false calves as a prosthetic device.

Many of the snippets I found from the Regency poke fun at false, or downey, calves including several poems and songs.

ed complaints in his side and chest from continual pressure Dandyism is in youth only ridiculous in age it is contemptible We have attempted the portrait of Hugh in his earlier days At fifty he was the most artificially constructed being in existence he was made up from head to foot He wore a wig false eyebrows false whiskers and false mustachios He had a complete set of false teeth his cheeks and lips were painted and the furrows beneath his eyes were filled up with a white paste His clothes were stuffed out at the chest and shoulders his waist was tightened in with stays and he had false calves to his legs He was altogether a walking deception a complete lie from top to toe a finished specimen of that most despi cable of all animals the superannuated dandy Π New Monthly Magazine and Humorist. (1823). United Kingdom: H. Colburn.

An article in the Shrewsbury Chronicle on 21 February 1834 shared a particularly harrowing tale of a tailor sewing an auctioneer’s apprentice for the princely sum of 4 pounds, 17 shillings for labor and materials to “make him a pair of trousers with silk lingings and padded calves.”  Apparently, evidence included a statement that “the thin-legged and very hopeful apprentice was only in his sixteenth year,” and although his friends testified he did not need the padding, after the jury reviewed the lads legs they found in favor of the tailor.  Similar articles were published far and wide, demonstrating the amusement of all.

Here is a description of a patent for hosiery to include false calves:

361 See Stocking frame HOSIERY Fleecy Mr Holland's patent for a method of making stockings gloves mitts socks caps coats waistcoats breeches cloaks and other clothing and linings for the same for persons afflicted with the gout and rheumatism or other complaints requiring warmth and for common use in cold cli mates and for making false or downy calves in stockings XV 17 An Analytical Index to the Sixteen Volumes of the First Series of The Repertory of Arts and Manufactures: Being a Condensed Epitome of that Work : Accompanied by Alphabetical Lists of the Authors and Patentees Whose Memoirs and Patents are Inserted Therein, and of All Patents Granted for Inventions from the Year 1795 to April 1802 : to which is Added, a General Index to the First Eight Volumes of the Second Series. (1806). United Kingdom: J. Wyatt.

The popular wisdom about false calves, other than prosthetic, were they were an affect of the dandy set – so perfect for poking fun at.  While it would become more difficult for these plump lower legs to be on display as breeches gave way to trousers, or even high Wellington and the like boots, I did find some indication that there were Victorian blokes still clinging to the past – and manly calves.

I think this display of masculinity, presumably for the male gaze, is interesting that I knew someone had to write an academic paper at least on the topic.  There is quite a bit of interest in Harvey’s (2017) paper including support for the idea that by the late 18th century, uniformity and decorative reduction was in the works for men’s clothing as men “abandoned..claim to be considered beautiful”.  Harvey traces the evolution of fashion, particularly throughout the Georgian and Regency era, where women’s legs are hidden compared with the exposed male leg, creating differentiation between the sexes.  Light color breeches being particularly fashionable helped to further emphasize both the groin and the legs.

Gernerd (2015) argued that a gentleman’s stock was not only a barometer of British masculinity but also a visual indicator of the health of the nation.  This ties into shifts I have tracked beginning in the 1810s with the standarization of military uniforms which place more emphasis on the chest as a source of masculinity, again as the style of boots and trousers begins to change.  Alzahrani and Saroukh (2024) do a detailed analysis of me;s fashion and its semiotic expression that support the evolution of men’s fashion and how it emphasizes different parts — include industrial influences which standardize with ready to wear, more simple designs.

Alzahrani, S., & Saroukh, S. (2024). The Semiotic Dimension of Men’s Fashion in Modern Eras. International Journal of Literature and Arts, 12(5), 133-148.

Gernerd, E. (2015). Pulled Tight and Gleaming: The Stocking’s Position within Eighteenth-Century Masculinity. Textile history, 46(1), 3-27.

Harvey, K. (2015) Men of parts: masculine embodiment and the male leg in eighteenth century England. Journal of British Studies, 54 (4). pp. 797-821. ISSN: 0021-9371
https://doi.org/10.1017/jbr.2015.117

 

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