Regency Dish: Blancmange in Several Styles

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A popular sweet to serve at masquerades was blancmange.  Here is a selection of receipts from: Millington, C. (1805). The Housekeeper’s Domestic Library; Or, New Universal Family Instructor in Practical Economy…

White Blanc Mange Add to a quart of new milk an ounce of picked isinglass a small stick of cinnamon a piece of lemon peel a few coriander seeds washed six bitter almonds blanched and pounded or a laurel leaf Putit over a fire and when it boils simmer it till the isinglass is dissolved and strain it through a tamis sieve into a basin Let it stand ten minutes skim it pour it gently into another basin free from sediment and when it begins to congeal stir it well and fill the shapes Another Blanc Mange In a quart of water boil an ounce of isinglass till reduced to a pint Then put in the whites of four eggs with two spoonfuls of rice water to keep the eggs from poaching and sugar it to the palate Run it through a jelly bag add two ounces of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds just scald them in the jelly run them through a hair sieve and pour it into a china bowl the next day turn it out stick it all over with almonds blanched and cut lengthways and garnish with flowers or green leaves Green Blanc Mange Dissolve some isinglass put to it two ounces of sweet and the same quantity of bitter almonds with enough of the juice of spinach to make it green and a spoonful of French brandy Put it over a stove till nearly ready to boil then stran it through
1 a gauze sieve and when it thickens put it into a melon mould and the next day turn it out Red and white flowers may be used for a garnish Duteh Blancmange Put a pint of warm cleared calves feet jelly into a stewpan mix with it the yolks of six eggs set it over a fire and whisk it till it begins to boil Then set the pan in cold water stir the mixture till nearly cold to prevent it from curdling and when it begins to thicken fill the shapes When it is to be served up dip the shapes in warm water Ribband Blancmange Pour into a shape some white blancmange two inches deep and when quite cold put alternately in the same way cleared calves feet jelly white blancmange coloured with cochineal or Dutch blancmange

Blancmange is believed to have originated during the Middle Ages, likely inspired from muhallebi, a Persian milk pudding.  Chaucer mentions it in Canterbury Tales, with early recipes including milk or almond milk, sugar, capon or fish, and some additional ingredients served as a stew.  The term comes from French, likely “white dish” despite the dish not always being white.  By the Regency, most recipes were sweet in flavour profile and made with a fantastical mold like the image above to give it height and detail.  It was often served at balls, masquerades, and other parties alongside a variety of jellies, cakes, ices, fruits, and other sweet treats.

You can read more about the food and drink at Regency masquerades in my new historical nonfiction book, Masquerade Balls in Regency Britain.

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