Regency Destinations: Weymouth

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I am re-reading Emma, and there is much talk of Jane Fairfax and Frank Churchill as having met in Weymouth, along with the story of Mr. Dixon saving Jane’s life there.

The seaside resort dated back to the ancient era of at least the 12th century. Situated on the coast in Dorset, England, in the Regency it served as a port but was also a popular summer home for King George III, and others of the fashionable set wishing to follow the royals.

Weymouth from the Look out taken May 1812 by JW Upham (1813)

The Red Barracks were constructed in Weymouth in 1795 for cavalry troops at the ready in the fight against France, with a fire causing them to be rebuilt in 1801.

However flourishing the condition of this town might have been in the reign of the Henry's the Edwards & c yet we have every reason to suppose that since the time of Elizabeth this place from a variety of causes has been gradually declining and fast sinking into its origi nal insignificance The removal of the wool staple to Poole the loss of the Newfoundland trade the havock made by civil wars damages by fire neglect want of public spirit and other causes had nearly produced this effect and till Weymouth begun to rise into repute as a watering place except a small number of Merchants Sailors and Tradesmen few else inhabited this place but Fishermen In little more than twenty years we behold this town enlarged by a vast number of elegant build ings The Esplanade which even boys remember to have been nothing but a place where the inhabitants de posited all the rubbish of the town is in so short a space converted into one of the most charming promnades in England and adorned by a range of handsome edifices which though not regular altogether forms a very gen teel appearance beyond this is a regular row of elegant buildings called Gloucester Row from whence to the turnpike the range of houses are to be continued which from the bottom of the Esplanade will extend nearly a mile in length
<a href="https://books.google.com/books?id=VbGnWsr7znAC&newbks=0&dq=weymouth&pg=PA16&source=bookclip&ci=59%2C151%2C880%2C1066"><img src="https://books.google.com/books/content?id=VbGnWsr7znAC&pg=PA16&img=1&zoom=3&hl=en&bul=1&sig=ACfU3U1AbvpzjnDPNhfr-HqmKxuVmJuKgQ&ci=59%2C151%2C880%2C1066&edge=0"/></a>Love, J. (1800). A New Improved Weymouth Guide: Containing a Description of Weymouth, Portland, Lulworth Castle, and Every Place in the Neighbourhood, Worthy the Observation of Strangers. With a List of Lodging Houses. Embellished with a View of the Bay. United Kingdom: Weymouth: printed for J. Ryall, perfumer to Her Majesty and the princesses. Virtue, printer, [Dorchester.

Sea bathing was a significant attraction, including for the King as depicted in this 1789 image:

‘Royal Dipping’,John Nixon (c1750 – 1818),5 July 1789,King George III takes the waters at Weymouth, serenaded by a band. His head is shaved, indicating his recent mental illness

The center of town held a hot salt water bath for convenience,  as well as the opportunity for dips in the sea. Lodging houses abound the main commercial centre, where there were also public rooms, libraries, and a theatre. Views offered the “delightful” prospect of the sea as well as mountainous hills and chalky cliffs, from which the gentry could view from a telescope at Harvey’s library.
As theatrical amusements are deemed both rational and instructive and at the same time may be considered conducive to health by diverting the mind from hypo chondriac propensities they may without impropriety be deemed not only amusing but beneficial to mankind The vast improvements made to the Theatre by Mr Hamilton under the management of Mr Hughes the owner who at a great expence has enlarged and orna mented it does honor both to the architect and the proprietor The public rooms and Hotel kept by Mr Stacie are in the centre of those buildings distinguished by tre name of Gloucester Row The Assembly Room is lofty light and spacious in which upwards of one hundred couple may dance with ease the ceremonies are conducted by Mr Rodber The principal Library is built in a very elegant style situated about the center of the Esplanade there is a commodious room to read the News papers & c with every suitable accommodation to it agreeable to the Nobility and Gentry who con resort to it The Card room over the Library 45 feet long 23 wide and 16 feet high and is very furnished It may not be presumptious to that it deserves to be ranked among the first Libra in the Kingdom
It is now in the possession of Mr John Harvey Watch maker and Jeweller to his Majesty PUBLIC WALKS Are the Esplanade in length half a mile in breadth thirty feet from whence the company go down by stone steps or a gradual descent to the sands on which they may walk with as much comfort as on a carpet in their own dining rooms In warm sultry weather it is delightful to walk within a yard or two of the sea a refreshing breeze from that element expands its wholesome influence giving health and spirits From the center of the bridge the views up and down the river are very pleasing from thence along the quay to the end of the new quayor pier is an amuseing saun ter and affords a most pleasing variety At the extremity of this pier from whence is an un interrupted view of the Esplanade the sands and the Bay are yachts of various discriptions for ex cursions upon the water which from the peculiar se curity of the Bay and skill of the navigators are the more inviting and consequently more numerous than at any other watering place in the Kingdom From this pier their Majesties embark when they in tend making an excursion on board one of the ships of war which attends here during the stay of the Royal
Family and is accompanied by almost every yacht boat from the harbour which has the appearence of a fine Fleet in miniature and greatly adds to the prospect from the Esplanade A walk to the look out on the Weymouth side of the water which being but a triffling distance from any part of the town is generally resorted to at least once a day from whence is commanded a most beautiful view of the west Bay the Island of Portland & c & c A little to the left of the look out on the noll or nose is the Camera obscura from the situation of this spot is commanded a north view of the town a distant part of the country and the sea which at any time when the sun shines has a most charming effect from the Camera About 100 yards further is a battery mounted with some fine heavy cannon near this spot has been recently erected the horse barracks which are built in a very commodious manner A little further is the Look out which commands an extensive prospect of the sea the Island of Portland on the right Lulworth and St Albans head on the left which prospect is much enlarged by ascending the upper hill from which is a view of Portland beach the West bay and to the SE of Portland is a full view of that part of the sea called the shambles in rough blowing weather this part is tremendous and carefully avoided by seamen seldom a year passes but the Portlanders are witnesses to the sad catastrophe of several vessels with their crews perishing
F At a small distance from hence is an old ruin called Weymouth or Sandsfoot Castle the remains of which are well worth seeing from this Castle along the sands leading to the Ferry house when the tide is out may be justly deemed a pleasing healthful excursion it being quite level and as smooth as a bowling green An excursion to the villages of Wyke and Chicker ill affords an immensity of delight to the lovers of sce nery at almost every step fresh beauties open to the view from many parts of the road the prospects be come suprizingly various and extensive particularly on the hill near Wyke Church to the west a sight of the Church and Village of Wyke with that vast mass of sea called the West bay to the south and east the Isle of Portland its castle the beach and Portland roads some times full of ships from the east to the north is Wey mouth and Melcombe with the company on the Espla nade and a full view of the bay to St Albans to the south a charming variety of land and water hills vallies and villages with numberless Cattle grazing this prospect is greatly heightened when the tide is flow ing in the water piece behind Weymouth has a fine effect From hence also is a view of the beautiful seat of Mrs Buxton called Bellfield it stands on a rising ground commanding a most extensive prospect of the channel the Isle of Portland and the Dorsetshire coast as far as St Albans head as well as a very picturesque home view (Love, 1800)

According to the guidebook, market days were on Tuesdays and Fridays, where visitors and locals could find butcher meats, and a variety of fresh caught fish including red mullets, john dories, sole, cod, turbot, popers, gurnets, mackerel, herring, lobster, crab, and prawns. And also, apparently, near perfect mutton (Love, 1800). All in all, a place well equipped to receive the genteel company like Mr Churchill, Mr Dixon, and Miss Fairfax.

As Rachel Knowles shares on her blog, Weymouth and Brighton were rivals for around thirty years, with Weymouth the more sobersides of the sea bathing locations and Brighton being more frivolous and fun (Blog | Regency History). Because of its sharp rise in popularity, due to sea bathing, in the 18th century Weymouth (A Brief History of Weymouth – Weymouth Museum) became an informal spectacle of Georgian architecture, to be added by Regency and early Victorian townhouses lining the Esplanade and beaches (A Forgotten Georgian Town | Adkins History) many of which are still standing today, albeit painted in cheerful colors.

Dorset has been known as the Jurassic Coast, where famous fossil hunter Mary Anning discovered prehistoric fossils in the early 1800s (Fossil Hunting on the Jurassic Coast | Visit Dorset).

 

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